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| 1679. Jean Baptiste Tavernier/upload.wikimedia.org |
Above image: French traveller and Diamond merchant: Tavernier 'image credit. Nicolas de Largillière - Herzog Anton Ulrich-Museum Braunschweig
In the summer of 1652, 'our travels took us from Masulipatam on July 20th towards the inland regions. Our initial progress was swift, but by the 27th, we found ourselves in Bezwada, our journey impeded by widespread flooding that had submerged the local roads. The swollen Kistna River further delayed our passage until the end of the month, also hindering the transit of horses destined for the powerful Nawab, Mir Jumla, sent by the Persian king.
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| French Traveller Tavernier myuniquediamonds.com |
Bezwada was notable for its abundance of Hindu temples, or pagodas, each a testament to the local devotion. These structures were often adorned with striking, sometimes unsettling, carvings of mythical creatures and animals. We visited a particularly impressive pagoda featuring fifty-two towering columns and a walled courtyard enclosed by a pillared gallery. Another significant temple, situated atop a hill reached by nearly two hundred steps, housed a unique idol distinguished by its triple crown and four horns, facing towards the east. We observed the rituals of the pilgrims, their hands clasped in prayer, their chants of "Ram! Ram!", and the colorful smearing of the deity. The temple's sixty priests lived off the offerings brought by devotees. Intrigued by a woman's silent supplication to the idol, I ventured into the dimly lit interior during the priests' absence and discovered a hidden passage, revealing a likely method of orchestrated divine pronouncements'.
On July 31st, we finally crossed the now-wide Kistna River, continuing our inland journey. By August 11th, we reached Pulicat, a significant Dutch settlement and fort along the Coromandel Coast. We enjoyed the hospitality of the Dutch Governor, Sieur Pite. The following day, we departed for Madras, arriving on August 13th and finding accommodation at the Capuchin Convent.
Our travels continued on August 22nd towards the villages of Cholavaram and Uttukottai, traversing a landscape dotted with bamboo groves, home to distinct and seemingly territorial monkey populations. The roads were punctuated by gates and barricades, a measure to ensure the safety of travelers. We were shown an entertaining method of provoking fights between these monkey groups using strategically placed rice and sticks.
Reaching Kuruva on August 26th, we encountered elements of Mir Jumla's army. We had the opportunity to meet a local captain, presenting him with gifts and explaining our intention to seek an audience with the Nawab. He expressed curiosity about our homeland, France, and extended invitations for both supper and an elephant hunt. We also learned about the local techniques for capturing elephants using concealed pits.
September 1st marked our arrival at Gandikota, a recently captured and strategically important fortified town perched atop a commanding mountain, its access limited to a narrow and winding road. Here, we encountered Claude Maillé, a French artilleryman previously in Dutch service, now employed by the Nawab to cast cannons for the fort. We presented the goods we carried to the Nawab, noting his reliance on trusted advisors for purchasing decisions. We also witnessed his swift and decisive handling of local criminals brought before him for judgment'.
https://franpritchett.com/00generallinks/tavernier/vol1_chapter18.html
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